Travel Notes: Destinations: Italy - Naples Travel Guide.
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Forget everything you have heard about Italian cities. Naples is not trying to impress anyone, and that is exactly why this southern Italian city is utterly brilliant. Share on Facebook
While Rome poses for postcards and Florence preens in its Renaissance finery, Naples gets on with being gloriously, chaotically, authentically itself.
This is where pizza was born, where Vesuvius looms like a sleeping giant, and where every street corner tells a story that's equal parts tragic and triumphant.
Visit Napoli for a Real Neapolitan Adventure
Naples (or Napoli, as locals call it) is Italy's third-largest city, but it feels like Europe's best-kept secret.
Sprawling across the Bay of Naples with Mount Vesuvius as its dramatic backdrop, this UNESCO World Heritage city offers something most Italian destinations can't; the chance to experience Italy as Italians actually live it.
Best time to visit: April-June and September-October.
Getting around Naples: Metro, buses, and your own two feet.
Population: Nearly 1 million (3 million in greater Naples).
Region: Campania.
Naples International Airport (NAP) serves as the primary airport for Naples and the surrounding Campania region in Southern Italy.
Located 6km north-northeast of Naples city centre the airport is well-connected to major European cities, with budget airlines making it increasingly affordable to reach.
Alibus Shuttle
€5, runs every 20 minutes to Centrale station and port.
Private Transfer
Pre-book for around €25-35.
Taxi
€15-25 (insist on the meter or agree the fare beforehand).
Naples Centrale is your main railway hub, connected to Rome (1 hour 10 minutes by high-speed train), Florence (3 hours), and Milan (4.5 hours).
The station can feel overwhelming, but you're right in the heart of the action.
Let's be honest, driving in Naples isn't for the faint-hearted.
If you must drive to Naples, park at your hotel and forget about the car until you leave.
The historic centre has limited traffic zones (ZTL) anyway, that'll earn you hefty fines if you're not careful.
The UNESCO-listed old town is Naples at its most atmospheric.
Narrow streets wind between ancient churches, and you're walking distance from major sights.
Best for: First-time visitors, culture enthusiasts.
Budget: €40-60 per night for B&Bs.
Mid-range: €80-120 for boutique hotels.
Luxury: €150+ for converted palazzos.
Naples' posh district offers upscale shopping, refined dining, and stunning bay views.
It's quieter but further from major attractions.
Best for: Luxury travellers and couples seeking romance.
Expect to pay: €100-300+ per night.
This hilltop neighbourhood offers respite from the city's intensity, plus fantastic views and the Castel Sant'Elmo.
Best for: Families, those wanting local atmosphere.
Budget-friendly: €50-90 per night.
Convenient for transport links but grittier than other areas.
Choose accommodation carefully.
Best for: Budget travellers and short stays.
Rock-bottom prices: €25-50 per night.
The only active volcano in mainland Europe is surprisingly accessible.
A bus takes you partway up, then it's a 30-minute hike to peer into the crater.
Practical Info
Best time to visit: Early morning for clearer views.
What to bring: Sturdy shoes, water, warm layer.
Beneath Naples lies a labyrinth of Greek and Roman tunnels, WWII air raid shelters, and ancient aqueducts.
The 90-minute guided tour reveals the city's hidden layers.
Tours fill up quickly, especially at weekends, so it's advisable to book ahead.
No Naples visit is complete without seeing Vesuvius's handiwork.
Pompeii gets the crowds, but Herculaneum is often better preserved and less overwhelming.
Forum and amphitheatre.
House of the Vettii's frescoes.
Plaster casts of volcano victims.
Entry: €16, €22 with Herculaneum.
Getting there: Circumvesuviana train from Naples Centrale takes about 40 minutes.
This Bourbon palace showcases Naples' royal past with opulent rooms, period furniture, and a royal library containing over 1.5 million volumes.
Don't miss the Throne Room and Royal Chapel.
Combined tickets are available with nearby attractions.
Naples invented pizza, and locals take this responsibility seriously.
Forget thick-crust American interpretations; Neapolitan pizza features thin, chewy crusts with simple, quality toppings.
Da Michele (Via Cesare Sersale, 1)
The most famous pizzeria in Napoli, serving only Margherita and Marinara since 1870.
Expect queues, but they move quickly. Cash only, no reservations.
Gino Sorbillo (Via dei Tribunali, 32)
Third-generation pizza makers with innovative toppings.
Multiple locations but this is the original and slightly more tourist-friendly than Da Michele.
Pizzeria Starita (Via Materdei, 27)
Famous for fried pizza (pizza fritta) and featured in 'Eat, Pray, Love'.
This pizzeria has more of a local neighbourhood feel to it.
Babà: Rum-soaked sponge cake, often filled with cream.
Pasta e fagioli: Hearty pasta and bean soup.
Ragu Napoletano: Slow-cooked meat sauce (takes some six hours to make properly).
Sfogliatelle: Flaky pastries filled with ricotta and candied fruit.
Concettina ai Tre Santi (Via Arena alla Sanità, 7)
Pizza in the authentic Sanità district.
Tandem (Via Paladino, 51)
Excellent ragu in a tiny space.
Trattoria da Nennella (Vico Lungo Teatro Nuovo, 103)Chaotic, brilliant, no-menu experience.
Naples' metro system is limited but efficient, with some stations doubling as art galleries (Toledo station is particularly stunning).
Consider a Day Pass, or three-day tourist pass, which includes airport bus.
The historic centre of Naples is compact and walkable, though prepare for uneven cobblestones and the occasional Vespa treating pavements as optional roadway.
Wear comfortable, sturdy shoes and keep your belongings secure (petty theft does exist).
Download offline maps (signal can be patchy in narrow streets).
Official taxis in Naples are white with meters.
Agree on fares for longer journeys or insist on the meter.
Ride-sharing apps work but aren't always cheaper.
The stunning coastline is accessible by train to Sorrento, then local buses run along the coastal road.
Allow a full day and expect crowds in summer.
Ferry from Naples port (50 minutes, €20+ each way). The Blue Grotto and Villa San Michele justify the tourist prices and crowds.
Often called Italy's Versailles, this massive Bourbon palace with extensive gardens is 45 minutes by train (€4.50).
Mercatino di Antignano: Vintage finds and local crafts.
Porta Nolana: Fresh produce, seafood, and organised chaos.
The main shopping street offers high-street brands, while the 19th-century galleria provides covered shopping with architectural flair.
Ceramics: Hand-painted pieces from local artisans.
Coffee: Neapolitans are serious about their espresso.
Limoncello: The lemon liqueur originated here.
Naples has a reputation for petty crime, but common sense goes a long way.
Don't flash expensive jewellery or large amounts of cash.
Keep bags zipped and phones secure.
Stick to well-lit streets at night.
The Quartieri Spagnoli can feel intimidating but are generally safe during daylight.
ATMs are widespread.
Many small establishments prefer cash.
Tipping isn't expected but rounding up bills is appreciated.
Basic Italian helps, though younger people often speak some English.
Neapolitans appreciate any effort to speak their language.
Mild temperatures, fewer crowds, and perfect conditions for walking and outdoor dining.
Hot, humid, and crowded, but longer days and vibrant street life. Book accommodation well ahead.
Mild by British standards but can be rainy. Many outdoor attractions have reduced hours, but you'll have the city more to yourself.
Morning: Naples Cathedral and San Gennaro treasures.
Afternoon: Spaccanapoli walking tour.
Evening: Pizza at Da Michele, aperitivo in Chiaia.
Full day: Pompeii or Herculaneum.
Evening: Naples Underground tour.
Dinner: Traditional trattoria.
Morning: Castel Sant'Elmo and Vomero district.
Afternoon: Royal Palace and Teatro San Carlo.
Evening: Sunset at Posillipo, seafood dinner.
Naples won't be everyone's cup of tea; or should we say espresso?
This is a city that demands you engage with it rather than simply observe from tourist-friendly distances.
Yes, it's louder, more chaotic, and grittier than other Italian destinations. But it's also more authentic, passionate, and unforgettable.
Come with an open mind, comfortable shoes, and an empty stomach.
Naples will do the rest, serving up experiences that'll have you planning your return visit before you've even left.
Naples is waiting; just don't expect it to queue patiently for your arrival.
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