
Fill up on orgies of urban entertainment, then
cleanse body and spirit with a walk in the hills, or a stiff sea breeze.
Metropolitan melee or rural idyll?
The choice of setting for the perfect weekend away
is a tough one to make -- so why choose at all?
We tend to respect an apparently unbreachable divide
between the hectic city break and its antithesis, the languid country
escape. But this dichotomy is mythological - in fact its two halves can
readily be fused, giving you the best of both.
Just as nothing beats the refreshment of a hot steam
bath and icy plunge pool, harnessing the contrasting forces of nature
and culture will leave you feeling thoroughly recharged.
For best results you've got to pick the right city.
The likes of
New York or Berlin boast impressive attractions, but natural beauty
is not among them.
Looking closer to home, where better than
Edinburgh?
Scotland's capital is a rich cache of architecture
and the arts, in a truly glorious setting between the rolling Pentland
Hills and the sea.
Ringing the town centre, islands of green rise above
the rooftops, volcanic and glacial landforms that bring an awareness of
the natural world into the heart of the city.
Surrounding Edinburgh, the countryside of Lothian
and the Borders offers wonderful day tripping: from wild upland and
wooded glens, to rugged coast and islands rich in bird life.
The townie delights of Edinburgh are well known;
the earthy delights less so.
Once you've tired of the bright lights, escape to
one of the city's fantastic open spaces, or hire a car and head out in
search of real countryside.
Here's a Suggested Plan of Action to Fill a Weekend Break
Start day one in a gallery, not something of which
Edinburgh is short.
The
Scottish National Portrait Gallery, situated in the heart of the New
Town at the east end of Queen Street, provides a unique visual history
of Scotland, told through portraits of the figures who helped to shape
it.
Head from here to the
Fruitmarket
- located directly behind Waverley Station, between Princes Street and
the Royal Mile - an alternative art space exhibiting contemporary art of
the highest quality.
After lunch at the Fruitmarket's popular caf�, try a
tour of the Palace
of Holyrood.
Those with young offspring in tow may instead prefer
to take the little darlings to the nearby
Our Dynamic Earth
geological exposition, housed in a futuristic beetle-like tent beside
the Scottish
Parliament - opened in September 2004.
You're now perfectly placed for the
hike up Arthur's Seat. With a couple of hour's daylight in hand the
circuit described below is eminently feasible.
In the crystal glow of a perfect winter sunset, this
could prove the highlight of your weekend. If the Seat looks too
daunting, Blackford Hill is a worthy alternative.
Spend a gluttonous evening immersed in an opulent
array of eating and drinking establishments that would not disgrace any
proud capital city.
The next day, you can
hire a car, forsaking the urban jungle for the Scottish countryside.
Any of the options listed below will conclude your weekend in memorable
style. The only downside is that you can't pick them all.
Arthur's Seat, Holyrood Park
A short hike up the molehill that thinks it's a
mountain rewards you with spectacular views ranging over Edinburgh's
celebrated skyline, the silvery Firth of Forth and the blue smudge of
the distant Highlands.
From Holyrood Palace and the new Parliament, follow
the dramatic curving crest of Salisbury Crags, like a stone wave poised
to break over the city. Then take your pick from a number of paths that
make the steep pull to the summit of the Seat.
Holyrood must rank amongst the world's finest parks;
unmissable.<
Blackford Hill
Edinburgh's 'second best' park boasts a few
attractions of its own.
Wander to the summit from the historic observatory
for a fine outlook over the suburbs. Then make your way down the far
side into the
Hermitage of Braid, a small wooded gorge abounding with animal and
vegetable life. The old Hermitage itself is also worth a look.
Pentland Hills Regional Park
Prominent in views from town, especially when
floodlit at night, one of Europe's largest dry ski slopes provides a
cheap and accessible approximation of the real thing -
Skiing in Scotland.
Those craving more tranquillity can salve the spirit
with a spot of easy hillwalking over the grassy undulations of the
Pentland Hills, with wide panoramas over Edinburgh, the Forth Bridges
and the Southern Uplands.
From the car park and ranger station, a long circuit
over Scald Hill and back via the Loganlea Reservoir pleasantly fills a
five-hour slot, though shorter expeditions are also possible. Just half
an hour's drive from the town centre.
Roslin Glen
Close to the (in)famous birthplace of Dolly the
test-tube ewe can be found attractions of a rather more wholesome
nature.
Rosslyn
Chapel dates back to the Templars, with intricate carving that is
little short of miraculous.
From here a path leads down into the twisting
confines of Roslin Glen, a wooded ravine complete with semi-ruined
castle. The riverside ramble along its base is a fruitful use of an
afternoon. Half an hour's drive from Edinburgh.
Glentress Forest, Peebles
(Forestry
Commission)
Britain's most extensive purpose built
mountain-biking trails thread through forested hillsides deep in the
beautiful Southern Uplands, with routes graded from blue to black - like
ski pistes.
Break yourself in on something gentle before taking
on the ferocious Helly Hansen V-Trail.
Pottering around the quaint market town of
Peebles provides the perfect wind-down after miles of hair-raising,
off-road cycling.
Hire bikes at
The Hub
(tel.01721 721 736), the caf�-cum-info-centre at the car park in
Glentress. An hour from Edinburgh.
This self-consciously pretty seaside town acts
as point of embarkation for boat trips to
Bass Rock, an impressive gannet colony in the Firth of Forth.
From a distance, Bass Rock looks snow-capped but as
you bob towards it the 'snow' resolves itself into thousands of birds
(and their doings), cloaking every available perch.
The rock resembles a maritime beehive, with swarms
of gannets wheeling about in spectacular confusion. Up close the air is
thick with their cries, and their odour.
To witness a display of the natural world this
extraordinary many people would assume you have to travel overseas. Not
so, North Berwick
is less than an hour from Scotland's capital.
Mid way between Edinburgh and the Northumberland
town of
Alnwick, this forgotten stretch of the North Sea coast rears up into
broken cliffs above, literally, crystal clear water.
Park close to the isolated farmstead of Dowlaw, and
make your way down to the remnants of Fast Castle, perched on a
headland. A chill sea breeze direct from
Scandinavia should blow the cobwebs away.
Back in the car, make for the picturesque fishing
village of St. Abbs, with a clifftop nature reserve boasting a huge
seabird population.
Out at sea the
St.Abbs and Eyemouth Voluntary Marine Reserve preserves a delicate
aquatic ecosystem that provides some of the UK's best diving.
Scoutscroft Diving Centre, in Coldingham (Tel:
018907 71669 for further details). Only 1 hour from Edinburgh.
By Dan
Bailey.
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